Level 1 Charger Plug...

On Fri, 08 Jul 2022 10:19:40 -0400, legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca> wrote:

>Hell, buddy, we just install the damn things . . . . .

No if it\'s an obvious fraud or spam.

--
Neural Network Software for Windows http://www.npsnn.com
 
> No if it\'s an obvious fraud or spam.

Let\'s be a bit careful about \"Fraud\" - although prima-facia, I agree on \'Spam\' as a good descriptive of the emails.

You will be given very artful language in the presentation.
You will be given very optimistic figures - however, the fine print will describe how they were derived.
You *will not* be given the various subtle requirements in the presentation - such as the age, type, or condition of the roof required and/or the substrate (sheathing & rafter-spacing for example, or that slate roofs (common around here) are not suitable for solar panels).
You *will not* be given any sort of maintenance implications.
You *will not* be given service-life expectancies of the peripherals (inverters, battery-banks, if any and similar).

So, absolutely not fraud- by-commission.

However, if you ask after all/some of the above, and continue to get the same artful language, NOW you are in fraud-by-omission territory.

So, the installer is typically a third-party contractor at arm\'s length to the end-user with the Shill handling the process. In our case, the Shill was none-other than the Sierra Club, and when I called them on the process, they immediately stated that they were working with a \"Partner\" and received a commission for every referral. We quit them at that moment. Between the Nature Conservancy, Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (we have been to their facility in Kenya), Audubon, and several other more honest organizations, we have no need for a blatant Shill.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
 
On Fri, 08 Jul 2022 15:46:44 +0100, Stephen Wolstenholme
<steve@easynn.com> wrote:

On Fri, 08 Jul 2022 10:19:40 -0400, legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca> wrote:

Hell, buddy, we just install the damn things . . . . .

No if it\'s an obvious fraud or spam.

Just saying, it\'s the buyer\'s responsibility to figure
that and anything else, out.

It\'s a lot simpler in the medium term - speculation on long
term trends are pointless if the materials at hand are toy
quality and your budget is going to get crapped on every
five years or so, by clowns in office, overseas.

RL
 
No if it\'s an obvious fraud or spam.
Just saying, it\'s the buyer\'s responsibility to figure
that and anything else, out.

a) The average consumer knows less about solar than he/she knows about the US Constitution.
b) The average sales person in the Solar Industry, based on personal experience, has the ethics of the typical congress member, and the morals of the typical Evangelical preacher.

True, \"Caveat Emptor\" is applicable. At the same time, the Solar Industry, and its Shills owes the average consumer honest and complete answers to specific questions. Certainly no less than that. What is clear, however, from the advertising out there is that those \'honest answers\' are thin on the ground.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
 
On Thursday, October 17, 2013 at 6:55:39 PM UTC-5, Dan wrote:
I need to replace a PSU fuse in an LCD monitor. The open fuse is
ceramic, 5 x 20 mm, and marked \"T3.15AH250V\", with no obvious spacing
between the various markings. I understand the speed rating (T) and the
voltage (250V), but I\'m unclear on the amperage. Is it 3.15 amps, .15
amps, or 15 amps? Did some searching, but all I can find are pages
trying to sell fuses, not any giving how to read the ratings.

TIA

Dan

According to the ratings you quoted, it is a T3.15AH or 3.15 amp hours with a 250 Volt (AC)
input of the fuse. What is the brand and the model number of the TV/Monitor? Having that
will enable me to pull up a service manual online and be able to tell you from the service manual.

A fuse is designed to open up for a number of different reasons with safety in mind. Sounds like
from what you tell me, there is a short. It could be the horizontal output, a shorted wire, a current
limiting resistor, or caps. that could have gone bad, if it wasn\'t merely a power surge. Monitors
use about 3 amps of current on the primary secondary power supply just before rectification.
 
On Saturday, April 15, 2000 at 2:00:00 AM UTC-5, wire wrote:
I am working on my aunts vcr and it just started to play color
tapes in black and white. I assumed it was just dirty and needed
cleaning. Took it apart and for the most part it is very clean.
cleaned up what little dirt there was and reassembled it. Still
plays tapes in black and white. What are some common things
that would cause this?
Thanks
Peter
--
!!!!!!!!!!!Go Build a Robot!!!!!!!!!!!
! http://members.home.net/wireb/ !
!!!!!!!!!!!Go Build a Robot!!!!!!!!!!!
Peter Shabino Graduated Electrical Engineering
wi...@home.com Michigan Technological University
2015 41st ST. NW apt. F13 Now at
Rochester, MN 55901 IBM card test division
Check the luminance/chrominance [luma/chroma] circuitry that controls the picture output
in black and white and color. I would check the 3.58 MHz crystal oscillator also on the video
output as well. This things help with the color processing. Usually, it is an IC or integrated
circuit (could even be a flatpack) that controls this or some discreet component like a transistor,
resistor, or cap. that activates the IC).
 
On Tuesday, January 11, 2011 at 1:31:52 PM UTC-6, Meat Plow wrote:
Yaesu VX-5R tri-band hand held. Momentary contact power on/off button.
I\'ve owned this radio for 9 or 10 years. Recently I have to push several
times on this rubber on/off button to get the radio to come on. But it
always takes just one touch to turn it off. And the radio works fine
otherwise including all the other buttons. Just have to play around
pressing the button maybe three/four/five times. Sometimes it powers on
when pressed once! But always shuts off with just one easy push.
This indicates to me that it\'s not a problem with button contact but
rather a microprocessor problem.
Discuss.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

I would use contact cleaner and clean the power switch. Dirty switch can act like the
module or micro did not see the command.
 
On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 8:03:28 AM UTC-6, micky wrote:
Reception at a remote TV** has degraded and I thought maybe a splitter
connection had gotten bad, even though they are all indoors.

No electronics stores in town anymore. Home Depot has normal ones but
Google came up with
https://www.walmart.com/ip/2-Way-Coaxial-Splitter-2-GHz-90dB-1-DC-Passing/892650362

And my question is, 90db!!! I\'d think it was a typo, but there\'s a
picture of it and it says it in big letters. This is loss, right?
Typical loss is 3.5db. With 90db loss, there\'s be almost nothing left.

Is this meant to fool suckers? Even if this were meant to fool suckers,
would anyone even make a splitter with 90db loss? (It also says 2.4GHz)

The 2.4 GHz is for wireless signals for the internet (like a cable modem
and router) and also work for TV\'s- just that they run on different bandwidths.
TV\'s run at about 1 GHz maximum. The decibel level for signal amplification
is usually between 6-9 dB (decibels). The 90 dB rating is for audio output on
devices with digital audio output (up to 90 dB on playback).
(It also says this, twice in a row: \"With this splitter being capable of
frequencies up to 2GHz, there\'s no need to worry about signal loss or
degradation of runs up to 100 ft.\")

True for wired signals. Wireless is an entirely different matter. You can
have architectural issues that interfere with the signals getting from one
point to another (example is someone only getting signals downstairs
and not upstairs). This goes into a different line of discussion.




Also, I\'ve thought about replacing the first amplifier too. It seems to
be warmer than it used to be. IIRC it used to be just barely warm and
now it\'s warm to the touch. Similar looking amps claim 20db and 36db
and unspecified. Because of the splitter above, I\'m suspeciaous that
36db might be phoney and actually no more than 20db. I can find the
links if you want them.

|--- 4 tvs in a row with an amplifier after the 2nd
DVDR-[**]-|
|--- 2 tvs in a row. Good reception at all 6 tv\'s except the
2nd one in this string.

**a splitter to 1 tv and an amp to all the others.

This had all been working fine for over 30 years. The problem tv
started giving problems a few years ago. Changing the tv didn\'t help.
(All but one are 14\" CRT tvs.)


Back to splitters,
1) Any reason to buy a gold-plated splitter? Outdoor use?

The gold plating offers lower resistance, but that is all. Other than
that, there is not much difference there.

2) Besides the extra $2 charge, is there any reason to NOT buy a
power-passing splitter if I\'m not sending any power?

The reason for bypass on the power is if you are not driving a tuner
on the outboard side of one of the legs of a splitter (i.e. you are running
a cable modem and then router on one of the legs of the splitter).

I would also suggest you look at the placement and the configuration of the
wiring. amps, splitter/(s), devices, the routing of the wiring, etc.., where you
placed the splitter (and signal amps), check gain controls and AGC (where
applicable). Make sure all wiring is good, the connections are good, firm, and
securely connected. Make sure the proper signal path is followed.
 
On Saturday, June 1, 2019 at 11:58:42 AM UTC-5, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
On Saturday, 1 June 2019 15:11:12 UTC+1, N_Cook wrote:
Getting inside a TV for the all too common reason, to divert the crappy
internal speakers to something decent, ie larger for some bass, externally.
3 caps on the ps marked \"G-LUX\" 470uF, 10V gold and black all with
exactly the same degree of bulge. No problem with the TV. Google images
shows none of that type. No other G-Lux examples on the boards to
compare with. They have the incised Y type of end to the cap.

While inside took some data, perhaps useful for someone sometime.
Beko 22WLP530HID, 2008
video board BEKO ELEKTRONIK XZT190-R-3
main ICs
NEC DE1115GM
Sony CXD1968BR
MSJ7286
D2516AETA
ps board Grundig XST194-1V-0
LG Display LC220WEI
Lytic caps don\'t bulge by design. If they\'re bulging, they\'re going into failure.


NT

To add to this poster\'s point, a couple of things; The third notch in the cap. is for
heat dissipation because these are less expensive, cheaply made caps. Also, the
temperature co-efficient could be rated lower than what the circuit is designed for
(to assure low tolerance, higher likelihood of failure and making device outmoded).
I have seen many TV\'s with the 85 degree C caps working a lot better on 105 degree
C caps. I increased the temp coefficient to make the circuit more robust and dissipate
the heat. This made the TV l fixed more likely to last. Never had a customer complain.
 
On 12.06.22 15:36, Matthew Weston is an idiot wrote:
Matthew Weston <mizatv4@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, October 17, 2013 at 8:03:21 PM UTC-5, mike wrote:
On 10/17/2013 5:56 PM, Dan wrote:
On 10/17/2013 5:31 PM, mike wrote:
On 10/17/2013 4:55 PM, Dan wrote:
I need to replace a PSU fuse in an LCD monitor. The open fuse is
ceramic, 5 x 20 mm, and marked \"T3.15AH250V\", with no obvious spacing
between the various markings. I understand the speed rating (T) and the
voltage (250V), but I\'m unclear on the amperage. Is it 3.15 amps, .15
amps, or 15 amps? Did some searching, but all I can find are pages
trying to sell fuses, not any giving how to read the ratings.

TIA

Dan
Google doesn\'t seem to have any trouble finding it.
First hit.
Assume you fixed what blew it.

No schmuck, the 1st hit is AMAZON selling the fuses. The next 99 on
that page are ALSO simply sellers.

Thanks so much for taking the time to be HELPFUL.
Ok, let me quote the amazon page for you.

QUALITY USA brand fuses!! Set of 5 pieces, T3.15AH250V, T3.15A 250V,
T3.15 H250V, T3.15A 250V, T3.15H250V cartridge CERAMIC fuses 5X20mm
(3/16\" X 3/4\"), 3.15A 250V, SLOW-blow (Time Delay)

And again with focus on the rating:
3.15A 250V

And again with just the amperage
3.15A
The A is for Amps.
That helpful enough for you?
So what that is shit information,

So you think replying to a **nine year old** message is going to be
useful to the poster.

You google groups users are complete idiots.
Come on now... it\'s never too late to know what A stands for!
 
Charles Lucas <charlesandmilly@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, April 15, 2000 at 2:00:00 AM UTC-5, wire wrote:
I am working on my aunts vcr and it just started to play color tapes
in black and white. I assumed it was just dirty and needed
cleaning. Took it apart and for the most part it is very clean.
cleaned up what little dirt there was and reassembled it. Still
plays tapes in black and white. What are some common things that
would cause this?
Thanks
Peter

Check the luminance/chrominance [luma/chroma] circuitry that controls
the picture output in black and white and color. I would check the
3.58 MHz crystal oscillator also on the video output as well. This
things help with the color processing. Usually, it is an IC or
integrated circuit (could even be a flatpack) that controls this or
some discreet component like a transistor, resistor, or cap. that
activates the IC).

Do you really think that after over 22 years, the poster of the article
to which you just replied is still waiting around for your answer?

The article to which you repled was posted April 15, 2000.
 
On Sunday, July 10, 2022 at 8:30:31 PM UTC-5, Another idiot on google groups wrote:
Charles Lucas <charles...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, April 15, 2000 at 2:00:00 AM UTC-5, wire wrote:
I am working on my aunts vcr and it just started to play color tapes
in black and white. I assumed it was just dirty and needed
cleaning. Took it apart and for the most part it is very clean.
cleaned up what little dirt there was and reassembled it. Still
plays tapes in black and white. What are some common things that
would cause this?
Thanks
Peter
Check the luminance/chrominance [luma/chroma] circuitry that controls
the picture output in black and white and color. I would check the
3.58 MHz crystal oscillator also on the video output as well. This
things help with the color processing. Usually, it is an IC or
integrated circuit (could even be a flatpack) that controls this or
some discreet component like a transistor, resistor, or cap. that
activates the IC).
Do you really think that after over 22 years, the poster of the article
to which you just replied is still waiting around for your answer?

The article to which you repled was posted April 15, 2000.

I saw the date (I can read) and I am truly sorry if my outrageously late reply deeply offends you somehow. I never expected either of us to wait and I am sure the original poster never expect me nor my specific answer to be available at any time. I posted a reply this late for archival purposes, as VCR\'s are outmoded now, for the most part. Besides, everyone else has had 22 years to provide some sort of answer (however simple or complex to solve the problem). Some of us when we service peoples\' tech. needs are extremely busy and do not get around to writing on a forum like this. At any rate, archiving the answer is good for posterity, should anyone at any future time utilize the technology or the information and find it useful. You can perceive me as an \"idiot\" for the outdated response. The fact is I wanted to respond to this and thought I would offer my two cents worth (whether you value the actual input or not). The point is even though the original poster didn\'t wait for me or answer, somehow you did respond with a reply.

Have a great day. God Bless.

Charles Lucas
 
On Sunday, July 10, 2022 at 7:53:59 PM UTC-5, Freethinker wrote:
On 12.06.22 15:36, Matthew Weston is an idiot wrote:
Matthew Weston <miz...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, October 17, 2013 at 8:03:21 PM UTC-5, mike wrote:
On 10/17/2013 5:56 PM, Dan wrote:
On 10/17/2013 5:31 PM, mike wrote:
On 10/17/2013 4:55 PM, Dan wrote:
I need to replace a PSU fuse in an LCD monitor. The open fuse is
ceramic, 5 x 20 mm, and marked \"T3.15AH250V\", with no obvious spacing
between the various markings. I understand the speed rating (T) and the
voltage (250V), but I\'m unclear on the amperage. Is it 3.15 amps, .15
amps, or 15 amps? Did some searching, but all I can find are pages
trying to sell fuses, not any giving how to read the ratings.

TIA

Dan
Google doesn\'t seem to have any trouble finding it.
First hit.
Assume you fixed what blew it.

No schmuck, the 1st hit is AMAZON selling the fuses. The next 99 on
that page are ALSO simply sellers.

Thanks so much for taking the time to be HELPFUL.
Ok, let me quote the amazon page for you.

QUALITY USA brand fuses!! Set of 5 pieces, T3.15AH250V, T3.15A 250V,
T3.15 H250V, T3.15A 250V, T3.15H250V cartridge CERAMIC fuses 5X20mm
(3/16\" X 3/4\"), 3.15A 250V, SLOW-blow (Time Delay)

And again with focus on the rating:
3.15A 250V

And again with just the amperage
3.15A
The A is for Amps.
That helpful enough for you?
So what that is shit information,

So you think replying to a **nine year old** message is going to be
useful to the poster.

You google groups users are complete idiots.

Come on now... it\'s never too late to know what A stands for!

A stands for Amperage- it was restated many times throughout the thread. Saying \"A\"
is electronics shorthand for amperage. Surely, you know this! Amperage is the amount
of current flowing through a circuit, just so you know that I know. It\'s the current that
gets ya when you get electrocuted also.
 
On 12.07.22 02:55, Charles Lucas wrote:
On Sunday, July 10, 2022 at 7:53:59 PM UTC-5, Freethinker wrote:
On 12.06.22 15:36, Matthew Weston is an idiot wrote:
Matthew Weston <miz...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, October 17, 2013 at 8:03:21 PM UTC-5, mike wrote:
On 10/17/2013 5:56 PM, Dan wrote:
On 10/17/2013 5:31 PM, mike wrote:
On 10/17/2013 4:55 PM, Dan wrote:
I need to replace a PSU fuse in an LCD monitor. The open fuse is
ceramic, 5 x 20 mm, and marked \"T3.15AH250V\", with no obvious spacing
between the various markings. I understand the speed rating (T) and the
voltage (250V), but I\'m unclear on the amperage. Is it 3.15 amps, .15
amps, or 15 amps? Did some searching, but all I can find are pages
trying to sell fuses, not any giving how to read the ratings.

TIA

Dan
Google doesn\'t seem to have any trouble finding it.
First hit.
Assume you fixed what blew it.

No schmuck, the 1st hit is AMAZON selling the fuses. The next 99 on
that page are ALSO simply sellers.

Thanks so much for taking the time to be HELPFUL.
Ok, let me quote the amazon page for you.

QUALITY USA brand fuses!! Set of 5 pieces, T3.15AH250V, T3.15A 250V,
T3.15 H250V, T3.15A 250V, T3.15H250V cartridge CERAMIC fuses 5X20mm
(3/16\" X 3/4\"), 3.15A 250V, SLOW-blow (Time Delay)

And again with focus on the rating:
3.15A 250V

And again with just the amperage
3.15A
The A is for Amps.
That helpful enough for you?
So what that is shit information,

So you think replying to a **nine year old** message is going to be
useful to the poster.

You google groups users are complete idiots.

Come on now... it\'s never too late to know what A stands for!

A stands for Amperage- it was restated many times throughout the thread. Saying \"A\"
is electronics shorthand for amperage. Surely, you know this! Amperage is the amount
of current flowing through a circuit, just so you know that I know. It\'s the current that
gets ya when you get electrocuted also.
I have no doubt that you know what (electric) current is and what A
stands for.
I wasn\'t addressing you this time, but \"Matthew Weston is an idiot\" and
I was being ironical at that.
 
On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 7:50:17 AM UTC-5, KenW wrote:
15 amps for a LCD monitor ??????????


KenW

Not usually- unless it is an oscilloscope or a vintage tube device.
 
On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 8:08:02 PM UTC-4, charles...@gmail.com wrote:
On Sunday, July 10, 2022 at 8:30:31 PM UTC-5, Another idiot on google groups wrote:
Charles Lucas <charles...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, April 15, 2000 at 2:00:00 AM UTC-5, wire wrote:
I am working on my aunts vcr and it just started to play color tapes
in black and white. I assumed it was just dirty and needed
cleaning. Took it apart and for the most part it is very clean.
cleaned up what little dirt there was and reassembled it. Still
plays tapes in black and white. What are some common things that
would cause this?
Thanks
Peter
Check the luminance/chrominance [luma/chroma] circuitry that controls
the picture output in black and white and color. I would check the
3.58 MHz crystal oscillator also on the video output as well. This
things help with the color processing. Usually, it is an IC or
integrated circuit (could even be a flatpack) that controls this or
some discreet component like a transistor, resistor, or cap. that
activates the IC).
Do you really think that after over 22 years, the poster of the article
to which you just replied is still waiting around for your answer?

The article to which you repled was posted April 15, 2000.
I saw the date (I can read) and I am truly sorry if my outrageously late reply deeply offends you somehow. I never expected either of us to wait and I am sure the original poster never expect me nor my specific answer to be available at any time. I posted a reply this late for archival purposes, as VCR\'s are outmoded now, for the most part. Besides, everyone else has had 22 years to provide some sort of answer (however simple or complex to solve the problem). Some of us when we service peoples\' tech. needs are extremely busy and do not get around to writing on a forum like this. At any rate, archiving the answer is good for posterity, should anyone at any future time utilize the technology or the information and find it useful. You can perceive me as an \"idiot\" for the outdated response. The fact is I wanted to respond to this and thought I would offer my two cents worth (whether you value the actual input or not). The point is even though the original poster didn\'t wait for me or answer, somehow you did respond with a reply.

Have a great day. God Bless.

Charles Lucas

You didn\'t provide any specific help at all, unless you want to consider \'check the color circuitry\' and \'it could be an IC, transistor, crystal, resistor, or capacitor\' as helpful.
 
On Saturday, July 16, 2022 at 11:49:16 AM UTC-5, ohg...@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 8:08:02 PM UTC-4, charles...@gmail.com wrote:
On Sunday, July 10, 2022 at 8:30:31 PM UTC-5, Another idiot on google groups wrote:
Charles Lucas <charles...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, April 15, 2000 at 2:00:00 AM UTC-5, wire wrote:
I am working on my aunts vcr and it just started to play color tapes
in black and white. I assumed it was just dirty and needed
cleaning. Took it apart and for the most part it is very clean.
cleaned up what little dirt there was and reassembled it. Still
plays tapes in black and white. What are some common things that
would cause this?
Thanks
Peter
Check the luminance/chrominance [luma/chroma] circuitry that controls
the picture output in black and white and color. I would check the
3.58 MHz crystal oscillator also on the video output as well. This
things help with the color processing. Usually, it is an IC or
integrated circuit (could even be a flatpack) that controls this or
some discreet component like a transistor, resistor, or cap. that
activates the IC).
Do you really think that after over 22 years, the poster of the article
to which you just replied is still waiting around for your answer?

The article to which you repled was posted April 15, 2000.
I saw the date (I can read) and I am truly sorry if my outrageously late reply deeply offends you somehow. I never expected either of us to wait and I am sure the original poster never expect me nor my specific answer to be available at any time. I posted a reply this late for archival purposes, as VCR\'s are outmoded now, for the most part. Besides, everyone else has had 22 years to provide some sort of answer (however simple or complex to solve the problem). Some of us when we service peoples\' tech. needs are extremely busy and do not get around to writing on a forum like this. At any rate, archiving the answer is good for posterity, should anyone at any future time utilize the technology or the information and find it useful. You can perceive me as an \"idiot\" for the outdated response. The fact is I wanted to respond to this and thought I would offer my two cents worth (whether you value the actual input or not). The point is even though the original poster didn\'t wait for me or answer, somehow you did respond with a reply.

Have a great day. God Bless.

Charles Lucas
You didn\'t provide any specific help at all, unless you want to consider \'check the color circuitry\' and \'it could be an IC, transistor, crystal, resistor, or capacitor\' as helpful.
Need a model number to do that. everything is specific to the model. Also,check any and all of those things- if not sure. A good
service manual for the model would help to track down the critical components that activate the circuit. There are also many different
integrated circuits and circuits out there and different ways to actuate them (a resistor,a diode, a transistor, or cap, etc...), so it depends on
the design of the circuit. If I have a model number, I can tell you what pins to check to verify correct operation. I have been a tech. for 32
years and not all circuits are designed the same. The initial information is generalized as a guide. If you want something more specific, please provide a model number or an FCC ID number. God Bless you.
 
On 7/10/2022 8:30 PM, Another idiot on google groups wrote:
Charles Lucas <charlesandmilly@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, April 15, 2000 at 2:00:00 AM UTC-5, wire wrote:
I am working on my aunts vcr and it just started to play color tapes
in black and white. I assumed it was just dirty and needed
cleaning. Took it apart and for the most part it is very clean.
cleaned up what little dirt there was and reassembled it. Still
plays tapes in black and white. What are some common things that
would cause this?
Thanks
Peter
Check the luminance/chrominance [luma/chroma] circuitry that controls
the picture output in black and white and color. I would check the
3.58 MHz crystal oscillator also on the video output as well. This
things help with the color processing. Usually, it is an IC or
integrated circuit (could even be a flatpack) that controls this or
some discreet component like a transistor, resistor, or cap. that
activates the IC).
Do you really think that after over 22 years, the poster of the article
to which you just replied is still waiting around for your answer?

The article to which you repled was posted April 15, 2000.
With a problem like that, my first shot would be to sparingly,
start hitting single parts in that area with cold spray, and see if the
color came back.
If not, then start troubleshooting. That even had success during the 1980s!

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
 
The article to which you repled was posted April 15, 2000.

With a problem like that, my first shot would be to sparingly,
start hitting single parts in that area with cold spray, and see if the
color came back.
If not, then start troubleshooting. That even had success during the 1980s!

Another technique is to heat the IC up with a hot hair dryer to see if you can get
it to act up that way. This worked during the 1980\'s also. Overheating microprocessors
beyond their temperature coefficients can be dodgy... They can be tricky.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
 

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